Boulder – Reykjavik; Reykjavik – Kulusuk. The adventure has started, but we are not on the glaciers yet. We stand on the Kulusuk dock at high tide. Tied to the dock pillars, down in the icy water, a pod of dead seals stays cool and preserved. In a land with 2000 varieties of lichen and moss but no plants more than an inch tall, protein is the foundation of everyone’s diet, humans and sled dogs alike.
Guilo arrives with his boat – the Inuit in Greenland no longer depend on kayaks and umiaks – and three of us jump aboard after transferring our heavy backpacks over. The other three will travel with Juustuus, Guilo’s son, on his larger and newer boat.
We take off to the North and into Ammasalik Fjord. The water is glassy smooth, and the surrounding mountains look at themselves in it. There was a time when…
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